UEL at Graduate Fashion Week 2013!
Graduate Fashion week provides the platform for the promotion of new talent, showcasing the future of fashion design. It holds exhibition spaces for over 40 universities, over 20 catwalk shows and attracts thousands of guests every June. This event is responsible for launching the careers of some of the most successful designers of our time. Graduate fashion week focuses on the fact that, not just that students can find work in fashion design but also in other related fields of fashion.
UEL once again created amazing pieces of work which they showcased on the catwalk at Graduate Fashion Week 2013. Below are their collections explained with the ideas behind their pieces.
This collection is inspired by the harsh reality of an eating disorder, which can leave the strong angular lines of the skeleton visible to the eye.
Harsh awkward shapes are created around the joints – the shoulders and hips, which influence the use of tucks and gathers to create an organic, sculptural silhouette.
Shapes are further enhanced by a dynamic print, complemented by the use of laser-cut detail, which mimic the print shapes. These techniques have been used though out the collection, created both digitally and naturally, providing depth to the garments with a powerful aesthetic.
Digital ghosts. This collection is inspired by blurred faceless people wandering in cyberspace. Busy anonymous bodies that are stretched or multiplied by technology,so that they end up being confused images of data.
Covered silhouettes combine asymmetry and distorted shapes. Solid coloured flat fabrics are used to accentuate the print inspired by the endless amount of data surrounding us.
Layered transparencies blur the detail whilst the solid construction details are enhanced.
Colours are neutral. Black, white, beige.
Does a robot dream to live like a human? Not only repeating it’s routine, but enjoying life with emotions and love? This classic Sci-Fi story can be seen in modern society.
Solid black British wool and neatly lined binary embroidery, on crisp tailored jackets and huge Japanese trousers, give a strong robotic persona to the collection. This gradually transforms to a soft and subtle silhouette and colour palette, imitating how life changes when people find true love.
Smooth skin-like silk and voluminous, richly layered organzas are hand dyed to mimic human skin and eyes. Round silhouettes accentuate the female form.
A woodland walk inspired the collection. The dull, wet forest was gloomy and a flash of orange caught the eye. Orange fungus was highlighted from the dull background. Ideas have been developed from an image of this.
The sloping hoods of the mushrooms reflect the dropped shouldered silhouette. The oversized umbrella heads are too large for the slim stalk. The inner mushrooms intricate design is reflected in the pleated details throughout the collection. Black; in various fabrics which come together to exaggerate the variety of textures and shades created, with the vibrant flash of orange that initially caught the eye.
This collection has its roots firmly embedded in the fixed gear cycling community, one that is widely noted for its strong street style and philosophy. Innovative use of fabrics, prints and materials combine with simple and exciting designs to create this look.
Taking inspiration from the streets of East London, performance fabrics and classic British tailoring are juxtaposed with relaxed, understated shapes. In one look, a structured tweed jacket is combined with square shorts layered over fluorescent printed leggings. Functional, performance sportswear is transformed by the integration of hidden pockets, reflective highlights, reinforced seams and ergonomic shapes.
“U.O.NOTT’’ (Under Over Knott) The knotting of childhood paper-chains and the doodles of Spirographs on a math book were the original starting point for this clever and simple concept.
Fluid, curved lines are inspired by the soft 3D movement of light and geometry. The use of simple, flat and light fabrics is a reflection of this childlike approach. Some are bonded to create a fuller feel and a clean contrast in colour, whilst effectively manipulated overlays provide sculptural details.
These elements create an effortless feel to this intelligent collection.
This collection is influenced by a spiritual belief that every human being has a soul, which evolves from our actions in previous lives.
Some minerals and especially geodes are parallel to our souls, as they are formed in similar ways. These Earth’s treasures have inspired this concept – a hidden beauty beneath an ugly surface.
The collection is experimental and focuses on texture, using an innovative technique of ‘burning’ to create a strong organic look, which is combined with clean and sharp lines. This evident contrast plays a crucial role in the overall collection’s silhouette.
INUIT – translates – THE PEOPLE.
INUIT inhabit the Arctic regions, their lives were traditinally centered on hunting, building homes of snow, fashioning clothing from animal skins, and carving tools of bone. To help them in a harsh climate, THE PEOPLE must adapt, THE PEOPLE must survive.
Encouraging a modern take on the INUIT. With soft silks, subtle embellishment and timeless silhouettes that reflect a luxurious approach on THE PEOPLE. The look combines simplicity with techniques that lend earthy grit, to create an AW’13 statement.
Clothing that reflects a culture, a lifestyle and raw sophistication.
The house at the end of the lane has been abandoned for years. The gate is overgrown with ivy and the iron is rusting beneath. The trees in the garden are hundreds of years old and bare from the perils of winter. The branches sprawl along, tumbling down, forming intricate patterns as one intertwines with another and another…….
The silhouette is bold and strong. It creates contrast; mystery lies within the parts that you can’t see, hidden within the blurred lines.
Fabrics are luxurious but timeless. Silk, wool, and leather have been aged with subtlety and integrity, through print and surface processes.
Jazz Gina Brar
She was the last queen of France, both vilified and exalted for her decadent lifestyle, her essence captured in this collection.
Through a vibrant palette of pinks and blues, seventeenth century silhouettes are dissected into playful separates. Corsetry is reinvented. Her rebellious attitude is reflected in subversive latex trims, bold and irreverent, offset against intricate pleating and luxurious brocades.
Bloomers and chemises are worn with nonchalance under a sumptuous frockcoat. Off-key prints, blurred, distorted and magnified are splashed across cascading layers on voluminous skirts, embracing a certain joie de vivre, all inspired by a fun frivolous and vastly extravagant personality.
Would you die for someone you love? What about someone you don’t even know? That is SACRIFICIAL LOVE.
Based on the crucifixion of Christ and inspired by the methods used to inflict bruising and lacerations such as ‘Cat O’ Nine Tails’, this collection is also inspired by the architecture of religious buildings and the covers of leather bound ancient bibles.
SACRIFICIAL LOVE is a collection of cathedral etched leathers, gold chain embellishments and bruise printed silks that reflect this beautiful ordeal.
Exploring changes in modern society, DNA and the merging of races; this concept raises a question of identity – will we still be unique in 50 years time? Embracing the identities of many, the focus is on creating a collection of separates for the strong modern urban citizen.
Design lines create a dialogue between fluid asymmetry and clean geometry. Flaming red trumpeting subtle surreal pencil-drawn prints, reflects the merging of the distorted crowd. Pencil skirts combine with strong jacket shapes to evoke elegant effortlessness. Clever details accentuate the grown-up feminine feel. Fabrics are modern and sharp, with digital prints and embellished beading.
Weapons, destruction and armoury have inspired a collection based on modern conflict.
A combination of panel cuttings and diaphanous textures gives the feel of a strong yet luxurious look, with defined lines shaping around the body to enhance the powerful feel.
A colour palette of browns, khaki greens and bold, strong gold has taken the military look to another level of extravagance. Chain mail and pieces of metal have been added to the fabric palette to give a more substantial feel of destruction, keeping the clean cut lines for a neat look of luxury.
Cut Me to See Who I am… an aristocratic infused collection which explores the serial murders committed by Jack the Ripper in Whitechapel, London 1888. The identity of this calculated murderer is still unknown, which allows for this concept to be explored. It uses cutting lines and folds that represent the uniquely identifiable fingerprint and shapes that were carved into the victims’ bodies, combined with the hourglass silhouette. Fabrics and prints reflect those worn by both women and men at this time, in deep red, brown, mustard and grey tones to depict the eerie dark atmosphere of Victorian East London.
Greco Roman sculpture and Art Deco architecture in London is the foundation of this collection. Post-modern references build on this, creating an unusual and unique approach to women’s-wear.
The bold geometry of Art Deco is juxtaposed against the broken lines of ancient ruins creating a striking visual that challenges normality.
The somewhat boisterous technical shapes are balanced with softer frills and pleats. Neon tweed adds texture and depth, resulting in a statement collection that remains ultra feminine and wearable.
Euphonic-Behind the wall is the Echo; a collection which expresses self-reflection in the origins and identity in society.
Silhouettes are inspired by traditional Korean costume mixed with the military, a reminder of the separation of North and South, and of the historical border of East and West Germany, where the designer was born and raised.
Through plain fabrics and multi-coloured landscape prints a personal journey is explored and utilitarianism and sensitivity are juxtaposed. The contrast of earthy tones and pastel brights reflects the reality of being disassociated in the same territory, alongside the significant fall of the Berlin wall.
Inspired by religious and customary garments worn by Jews during special festivals, Orthodox is based on hidden aspects of Jewish life.
Lineage can be dated back to biblical times, their strength and endurance is what unites this culture; fellowship and tradition. This reflects the mood of this collection.
Encompassing a rich and intriguing heritage the collection uses soft tailoring in a rainbow of black, greys and stripes with white accents. Menswear-inspired silhouettes are combined with softly draping trousers, contrasting layers, and tightly wrapped belts to create a powerful yet feminine feel. Fabrics include traditional woven stripe shirting and textured wools.
Sources – http://www.uel.ac.uk/fashion/profiles/bahonsfashiondesignandbahonsfashiondesignwithfashionmanagement/